Aged to perfection: Croaker named July's seafood of the month

"The taste is mild yet sweet."

That is how Jeong Yak-jeon, a practical-learning scholar of the late Joseon period, described the large yellow croaker in his encyclopedic fish compendium "Jasaneobo." Sweet and clean on the palate, the fish is a popular summer health food — and this month is an especially good time to enjoy it aged.

The Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries and the Korea Fisheries Association have named the large yellow croaker the seafood of July. "The large yellow croaker is well known as a representative summer seasonal seafood and health food," said Gwak Jong-min, head of the association's consumption promotion team. "We selected it as the seafood of July by taking into account its peak season, seasonality and broad public appeal."

The fish is rich in nutrients that aid recovery, including amino acids, B vitamins and iron. It is also easy to digest and absorb, making it a good choice for the elderly and those recuperating from illness.

Those who avoid fatty fish or high-calorie foods can eat it without concern. Large yellow croaker is low in fat and high in protein. According to the National Standard Food Composition Table, a 100-gram serving of grilled large yellow croaker contains 106 kilocalories, 23 grams of protein and just 0.8 grams of fat.

The flesh is soft yet springy, and aging deepens both its tenderness and umami flavor. "When large yellow croaker undergoes proper low-temperature aging, the muscles that stiffened after death relax, making the flesh even more tender," Gwak said. "Inosinic acid, which produces umami, is also generated, giving the flavor greater depth." Inosinic acid, found in meat and fish, is one of the three principal umami compounds alongside glutamic acid and guanylic acid.

According to the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries' seafood information site, large yellow croaker sashimi — a summer delicacy — tastes better when aged for a day or two rather than served as live-fish sashimi. It earns its reputation as a summer treat through its deepened umami, gentle sweetness, varying textures by cut, and a distinctive multi-course sashimi experience that includes the fish's swim bladder and skin.

The belly meat is at its best from June through August, when fat content peaks, delivering a chewy texture and rich, savory flavor. The swim bladder has a soft, pleasantly sticky bite with a mellow, unctuous taste, and is typically eaten dipped in salt or a sesame oil and salt sauce.

A whole large yellow croaker clear broth soup is another satisfying summer health dish. It is made by simmering radish, tofu, green onion and chili peppers in an anchovy and kelp stock, producing a clean, refreshing flavor.

Proper storage is important when handling the fish in summer. Raw large yellow croaker should be kept refrigerated and cooked within one to two days. For longer storage, portion it into single-serving amounts, seal tightly and keep in the freezer.

When selecting a fresh large yellow croaker, look for firm flesh that springs back when pressed, clear eyes, a silvery sheen on the scales and a mild, not overpowering, smell.